This is the styling of the homes in the street where I stayed in Parnu last night, as you can see very outdated and of wooden construction. The B and B I stayed at was a modernised version of this, but was all stripped wood inside so not too bad, although the owner was a bit of a miserable git. This morning I asked if I could have a bucket of water in order to wash the bike but the miserable git refused even though there was a bucket near the back door, I even had my own sponge so just needed water! In the end I found a garage where I was able to wash her and she looked all nice and proud again.
Today I have set off for Riga which is the capital of Latvia and is supposed to be a nice city. On the way I stopped as usual at a garage for hot chocolate and this time a cake. Just as I sat down, as there was a little cafe inside the garage, I was joined by another biker who told me he was from Uruguay of all places. He was born in Germany but has lived in Canada and now Uruguay. He had come to Germany to visit his mother, had bought a BMW 1200GS and had took himself off for a trip around Europe. He hoped to spend a few days with his mother in Cologne before he flies back home, thats what you call a good son!
I crossed into Latvia no problem and at the border I saw this Stork wandering about as if he owned the place. I have seen a few during my trip but this is the first one that I have been able to stop and photograph.
You certainly would not want to hit one of these whilst on the bike.

I rode on and occasionally caught a glimpse of the Baltic. At one spot I was right next to the beach so stopped so Jed could dangle a floppy woolen foot in the sea. I could see what must have been about half a mile in each direction. It was a lovely sandy beach "and no-one it"
As soon as Jed was ready for his photo it started to rain, yet again! So it was a rush back to the bike and once again into the waterproofs. The sky was black and certainly menacing.



We carried on into Riga and the rain just got heavier, then it started to thunder and lighten. I was supposed to be camping for tonight and tomorrow but the rain was so heavy that I could not face the prospect of putting up the tent in heavy rain so I stopped at a garage, phoned home and got Chris to find me a hotel near the city centre.
She duly sorted one out and I made my way there, arriving just as the rain stopped. I offloaded the bike and yes, the rain started again. Will it ever stop?
I sometimes think I should have headed south with Rob but then I remember how hot it was last year and I now that I made the right decision, I just wish that I could be dry, don't really need the hot sun, just a little warm sum would be nice.
It is now 1645 hrs here, still raining but not as heavy so I think it is time to wander into Riga and see what it has to offer to a wet visitor.

Bad day at the office

Today has been a bit of a downer I'm afraid, it started out OK but then seemed to go downhill a bit. I packed my gear this morning and loaded everything onto blackie, I then found that my mess tins were causing a bulge in the of my roll, so I loosened the straps a bit, open the roll whilst it was still on the bike in order to move the tins, result, quite a few things from the bag, like my mug, headtorch, milk powder, spare gloves and towel all fell from the bag meaning that I had to take the roll off and start again. Would have been better to do that in the first place, cutting corners does not work.
Finally got on the road and after about 30 mins it started to rain. My jacket is a summer one for letting through air and is therefore not waterproof so in rain I put on an overjacket, however, at what point is it raining enough to don the overjacket, it is a fine balancing act, too early and you have stopped and put it on for nothing, too late and you are already wet! Today I pitched it just about right and pulled up next to heavy woodland, got off the bike and removed gloves and helmet, only to be descended on by hundreds of flies, it was like something out of a horror movie. I threw the jacket over my head then replaced the helmet and continued to sort myself out with the helmet on and visor in the down and locked position trying to hold my breath so I did not mist my visor, what a nightmare.
Finally waterproofed I rode on until such time as I needed fuel. It was still raining so I stayed at the garage and had my daily hot chocolate and chocolate bar, whilst ther I also phoned my dad to wish him happy fathers day and answered texts from my daughters wishing me the same.
Whilst I was at the garage a Swiss man pulled up on his bike and we got chatting. He was also on his annual holiday ride and had been to Norway, Sweden and Finland and was on his way back to home. I noticed straight away that he only had a very small rucksack attached to his bike for luggage ,I asked about this and his reply was that he does not change his clothes too often and if he needed some new pants or socks he just bought some and threw the others away, talk about travelling light, not for me.
I eventually pulled in at Parnu which is a seaside town with ver nice beeches to the Baltic coast but as it was still raining I did not take advantage of them. Tonight should have been a camping night but as it was still raining I decided on a guest house instead, finally finding one in a quiet street of wooden houses for 45 euro, more than I wanted to pay but at least I also get breakfast and it also has wifi, although, in my room it kept dropping out so I am typing this under the stairs with the computer on top of a fridge and sitting on a chair from the dining hall.
No photos I'm afraid today, far too wet, we will see what tomorrow brings.
The bike also looks shite and could do with a good wash, I will see if I can grab a bucket in the morning.
Thats it today, off into town now to find something to eat.

The beautiful Alexander Nevsky Cathedral , why is it all churches have some scaffholding on them? That is one to ponder.

I had a belly busting meal last night at the hotel where I am staying. Started with mushroom soup ( a old favourite of mine) then had loin of pork wrapped in smoked bacon with veg and fried potatoes, and finished off with the biggest baked Alaska that a man could wish for. I'm sure that it was really meant for 2 people to share, but I knuckled down and got stuck in, it took some eating but I would not let it defeat me. Also had 2 beers. I can say one thing for Estonia, the portions are huge. All of the above cost a mere 14 euro, great value.
It rained all last evening and throughout the night but at least it was dry this morning, although cloudy. I took the bike back into town and by the time I got there the sun was out and it warmed up nicely.
First port of call today was the Alexander Nevski Cathedral which is a Russian Orthodox church above Tallinn old town on what is called the Toompea. As all Russian Orthodox churches, this one was full to the rim with gleaming gold and silver, a sight to behold.
After that I had decided to visit another tower.....more steps. This one is called "Kiek in the Kok" which I am assured meant Peek in the Kitchen, this was because from this tower which is quite high, the soldiers could look into the kitchens of the old town. This tower has been turned into a very good museum, spread over 6 floors with exhibits depicting the history of local war on each floor. Below the tower there are tunnels under the bastions, however as the next English tour was not until 3pm I had to come back to it.
Another museum that I was told I ought to see was the Museum of Occupation, this small place tells the story of the occupation of Estonia by 1st the Russians in 1939, then Nazi Germany in 1941 followed again by the Russians after the war. Although it is small the story it paints is very touching telling the stories of those involved and the stories of the thousands that were killed, many shipped to Russian Gulags. Well worth the 2 euro entry fee.
After this it was a short walk back to the main square where I noticed at the base of the town hall there were some wooden bench seats and tables and a sign saying "Elk Soup 1 Euro", well it was time for dinner, so in goes I. Came out with a steaming bowl of Elk soup (tastes like beef) and a fresh from the oven hot meat pie (did not ask what meat) Lunch for a total of 2 euro, it does not get better. I started to chat with a couple from Cheshire who told me that the place was given a very high recommendation in the Guardian travel section...well I can agree and so can Jed, which speaks volumes.

Jed with his empty bowl of Elk Soup, for 1 euro he may treat himself to another.

By now it was about 2.30 so I made my way back to the tunnel tour below Kiek in de Kok.

This tour lasted about 40 mins and took in a section of the tunnels built when the bastions were constructed in the 1400's. Although constructed when the Swedes occupied Tallin they were never used in battle. Instead over the years they were forgotten all together, being re-discovered and used by the civil defence during the war, they were then altered slightly (re-inforced) when the Russians had control and they were prepared as nuclear shelters for those in power. After being abandoned again they were taken over by some homeless people before being used in the 80's by punks as somewhere to play their music as the punk movement was banned. In 2005 the tunnels were cleared and cleaned and opened to the public by way of guided tours.

That's about it for today, tomorrow, weather wise, looks a bit grim with rain forecast, that's typical as I am going to the seaside at a place named Parnu, about 100 mile from here, I can only hope the forecast is wrong.

Small World ain't it.

Just been and had a very nice 3 course Birthday (have I mentioned its my birthday today?) meal at the hotel for 14 euro's including beer, and was speaking to the waitress. Asked if she had learnt English at school as she spoke great English with a slight twang. She tell me no, but she had learnt living and working in England. I asked where, and yes, you've guessed, Birmingham....I now realise what the slight twang was, some words sounded right brummie.
She moved back to Estonia 6 months ago but is bored and is moving back to brum on 30th June. Has her old job back working in a beauty salon in Quinton.
You could not make it up could you.

Tallinn

Myself and Jed at the Joey Dunlop Memorial, Tallinn

Believe it or not, today is my birthday and after a nice breakfast on the Baltic Queen we docked in Tallinn at 10am. First on the agenda for the day was to drive the short distance from the docks to the Joey Dunlop Memorial which is in the forest at the spot where he lost his life racing on a street circuit on the outskirts of the city. As you can see the memorial is rather plain, just giving his name and his dates, however, it is rather fitting. Jed left as small Isle of Man flag as his dedication and it joins the larger one that can be seen in the picture, that one was apparently left there last year on the 10th anniversary of his deathe. There were also 2 Joey Dunlop shirts as well as several plaques that had been left by supporters.
Whilst we were standing below the trees that claimed his life a fir cone fell at our feet, this was collected up and Jed now has a special memory of the visit.

I then rode into Tallinn itself and parked up at the bus station, in true Manx way, up on the pavement, refusing to pay a parking fee. My secure stash bag was locked to the bike underneath the pannier which, together with the steering lock and disc lock would make it awkward for the Police to move the bike should they so desire. A parking ticket I can ignore.
I must say, Sandra Smith was right (for a change..Ha) Tallinn in a beautiful place, cobbled streets everywhere, defence walls and towers and lovely old buildings. Visited a couple of churches and visited the market square where, yes, there was a market. The store holders were all dressed in costune so it gave a nice atmosphere.
Jed, once again, wanted to visit the highspots and forced me to climb to the top of St Olives tower, I was on my knees by the time I had climbed the spiral stairs, and dizzy. I always prided myself on being reasonable fit for a bloke of my age (did I mention my birthday by the way?) but climbing all those steps really put a strain on the old lungs. I was panting and sweating I can tell you, thats what sitting in an office does for you, be warned.
I am stopping at the Tahetorni Hotel tonight and tomorrow, its great to get a bed! The place is very nice and for the small price of 5 euros I am allowed to park behind the automatic gates in the walled courtyard so at least I am happy that my blackie is all secure, peace of mind helps a lot.
It is pouring with rain here now, came on as I arrived at the hotel so I will have my evening meal here and hopefully go back to Tallinn tomorrow.


View of the Old Town from the top of St Olives (thanks to Jed)

Birthday......Just to let everyone know

2 beautiful Grey Owls

Bear doing his early morning stretches.

Today, 17th June is my birthday.....there, said it, now I will try not mention it again.

Yesterday (the day before my birthday) I was still in Stockholm with a day to fill as the boat did not leave until 6pm, so I had a few hours left in which to entertain myself.

For starters I went to Skansen, which is a site on one of the many islands of Stockholm where they have re-erected a load of old buildings from Swedish history. I got there at about 11am by the time I had broke camp, and even though the place had been open since 10am, it had that just about too open feel about it. Most of the buildings were still shut and no staff appeared to be about. Also there was a certain unkept appearance about the place with the grass around the buildings being very long and weed infested. It certainly is not a Cregneash or Black Country Museum.

Anyhow I made my way up the hill following a sign to Scandinavian Animals to find 5 bears, 1 fox, 2 grey owls and some European Bison (looked like American Bison to me, but what do I know. There were also a number of wmpty pens under renovation, very run down.

However, by the time I had watched the bears for a bit I had decided to cut and run and make my way to the Science Museum where the NASA exhibition was taking place, but as I started to walk to the exit I noticed that a few of the buildings were now open so decided to take a closer look. On the whole it was not too bad, it was interesting talking to the people playing the parts of the peasants and some of the building interiors were intersting...would I reccomend it to visitors....No, sorry.

Next stop then was the science museum which was far better, the Nasa exhibition is on a world tour at the moment and is due in London some time next year, now this is worth a visit.

I took an audio tour of the exhibition and it was very informative.

By now I was once again starving but only had enough Swedish currency for a cup of tea...all together now, I know. I had noted that Swedes use debit cards for everything, I was even in a queue behind a girl who paid for a single ice cream with a debit card, so, as they say, When in Rome!!!! sorry, wrong country. In the end I was able to eat and left Sweden with the fine sum of 6 kroner, or about 60 pence in proper money...no wastage there then.

My next step was to make the port for my 14 hour crossing to Estonia on the Baltic Queen, one of the Baltic state cruise ships. I have been on P and O ships a few time and they thought that these were great, but it was no contest with the Baltic Queen, even my cabin was superb with great shower, radio, TV (including BBC news 24 and MTV) writing desk and computer points. The ship had numerous shops and a supermarket (you should see how many crates of the beer and liquor they shift!!) 5 bars, 3 restraunts qnd 3 seperate disco's and entertainment areas. Impressive.

The food was also pretty good and would say that P and O was of similar standard on that score. Anyway a pleasent 14 hours spent and a very nice bed to boot!

Myself and Jed at the top of the City Hall yesterday. The only picture of us both together so far.

My treat for today, nice large hot chocolate and a chocolate mouse cake - how many calories? Who cares, its my birthday soon!!